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Laelia anceps ‘Mendenhall’ AM/AOS

We grow many different forms of Laelia anceps and its pretty difficult to decide which one is my favorite. But this peticular clone is definitely one of them. This is an original division of the famous ‘Mendenhall’ clone that received an AM/AOS. If I remember correctly, this is a tetraploid mutation that resulted from a cloning of the (also) famous ‘Irwins’ clone done by Carter & Holmes. These are VERY large flowers for an anceps with the primary flowers measuring almost 6 inches! And the color is great too.

This is not for the window sil though…this flowering has 9 spikes with the spike length varying from 2 to 5 feet each and has over-grown its 14” basket.

Cycnodes Jumbo Micky x Cycnoches chlorochilon

I’m very fond of the Catasetum family…Most are grown for their unique pollen-ejecting male flowers and intriguing flower shapes. These are great examples of orchid/pollinator evolution and the clever way plants trick insects into carrying out their dirty work. But the entire group isn’t all ‘weird and wonderful’ there are some beauties as well and the Cynoches section (and their hybrids) are amongst the most beautiful of ALL orchids. 

This peticular hybrid is one of my favorites and has been in our collection since 2005. One of the parents, Cycd. Jumbo Micky, is dark orange with red stippling and a deep red/orange lip. The other, Cyc. chlorochilon, has a waxy texture and is a bright yellow/green. From the pictures above its pretty obvious which parent is color dominant, but when seeing this in person you can’t help but smell which parent is fragrance dominant!

Jumbo Micky has a fantastic sweet smell that came through in its offspring. Some people say its banana but to me its very reminiscent of  the spongy, orange “circus peanuts” candy…which ironically are supposed to be banana flavored. 

To grow these well you must provide year-around bright light and excellent air movement. They are very adaptable to lower humidity but higher levels will keep the spider mites at bay (which they are very susceptible to). 

The most important thing to respect in this group is watering. By January first (1/1 TODAY!) I will always curtail all watering to these plants. From the decrease in water and other environmental factors (lower light,temps,etc) they will begin to go into winter dormancy. At this point the foliage will begin to dessicate and fall off. This is completely normal…just keep the plants clean, UNWATERED, and in a bright area. After you’ve grown these and other winter-dormant orchids you get used to the “are those orchids dead?” and “shouldn’t those be watered” questions from greenhouse visitors. If you plan to divide them, you can take them out of their pots for the winter (shake off the potting media) since they will take up less space this way. This group breaks the “3 bulb minimum” rule when it comes to division and can be separated into single (yes single) growths. I’ve found that if you don’t plan on dividing that they flower better the next year if left in their pot.

When the new growths start in the spring, you can pot them up in your favorite potting mix. I have found that 50/50 medium grade pine bark and pumice with 20% chopped sphagnum works excellent. At this point you still want them to remain unwatered until the new growth is up about 4-5” and the new roots have sunk into the mix about 4-5”. Then, gradually increase watering to about once a week until the growth is really taking off (they grow very fast). Mid-late summer they should be kept damp at all times and should not dry out completely between waterings. If your plants are in 3” pots or smaller pure sphagnum works great for this. Another thing of note: don’t forget to feed!! They have a short time to grow so they need every chance they get to eat. By October start the gradual decrease in watering back down to once per week and prepare for blooming in the late fall when the cycle can be started once again. 

And who says orchids are too much work?

Epidendrum parkisonianum

For some reason, I have always been drawn to sinister looking orchids and Epi. parkinsonianum is one of my favorite. This plant measures about 4 feet from top to bottom and must be grown in a pedulous manner. Could you imagine seeing this hanging out of a tree in the cloud forrest? You probably would think twice about going near it, just one of the reasons I love this species.

I grow this in a 10” teak basket hung sideways to accommodate the growth habit in a very bright area with a drier rest in the cooler months.

This is pretty amazing to me…from the looks of it this little girl is holding what appears to be some kind of odontoglossum/oncidium type probably just collected…really cool.

kevinmims:

Digging through old photographs tonight. Here are some from taken by my grandfather on one his trips down the Amazon in 1960.

Me and Cattleya percivaliana (‘Summit’ FCC/AOS x v. alba ‘Sonjia’)

The Cattleya species….like my friend Alan Koch would say, the ‘real’ orchids. These are the orchids early explorers risked possible death by disease, wild animals and unfriendly natives to find. And once found would go to great lengths fabricating lies about the locations just to deceive the competition. These beauties called the cloud forests of Central and South America home, but would soon be imported to the stove-heated hot houses of England at any cost (monetary AND enviromental). And so the era of Victorian orchid mania began…

Believe it or not there was once a time when people learned to grow orchids by growing Cattleyas. This might seem alien to some since almost everyone who started growing orchids in the last 15 years probably started with a Phalaenopsis of some sort. But at one time the Cattleya was the King (or more appropriately Queen?) of orchid growing. In my opinion those growers who start with Phalaenopsis are at a disadvantage. Don’t get me wrong, they also are beautiful and much desired with there own significance. But so few other orchids grow like Phalaenopsis..and yet so many grow like Cattleyas. Bright light lovers, with a distinct seasonal growth pattern and a necessary rest period to succeed. You really couldn’t ask for a better master. They teach you when to water, when NOT to water and how to re-pot. Oh, and did I mention the large, fragrant flowers? A fortunate side effect of learning how to grow these ‘real’ orchids.  All through keen observation and a little trial and error.  

Laelia anceps v. guerrero  

Silicon

Silicon (not to be confused with SILICONE) is Atomic number 14 and is one of the earths most abundant elements. In fact it is second only to oxygen making up approximately 24% of the earths crust. 

Silicon plays an important part in plant and animal life. In plants, it is considered 1 of the 11 key micronutrients beneficial to plant development. Silicon is found mainly in the cell walls of plants and when given soluble amounts, plants have shown greater heat/drought tolerance as well as possible insect and disease resistance.

I’ve found that adding soluable silicon (such as Pro-Tekt) to your nutrient regimen can help plant growth during the warmer/brighter months. To help with uptake most products will combine silicon with potassium. One thing to keep in mind, a Silicon supplement will effect the PH and may need to be adjusted for proper nutrient uptake.  

Potting Media/Container Chart

All of us have needed to make a change in our potting media from time to time. You may find that your Paphiopedilums need to stay a bit more wet or that your Cattleyas need to dry-down a bit faster. Here I’ve designed a chart that compares the general Air Flow, Water Holding Capacity, and Stability of the most commonly used Containers/Potting Media.

When referring to this chart , please keep in mind that the comparisons are based on the mentioned material alone and doesn’t take in consideration the properties (AIR,WATER,STABILITY) when combined with each other. Also keep in mind that the particle size can greatly alter these as well. A good example would be bark, generally the larger the particle the less water holding capacity and the more air flow. And that same bark will dry even faster and stay more stable when a basket is used vs. a plastic pot. Hope this helps!

Paphipedilum bellatulum 

One of my favorite orchids in my favorite section of paphiopedilum, bellatulum is native to Myanmar (Burma), Northern Thailand and into S.W. China. The relatively large, round flowers are borne on short stems that are typically weak and the flowers tend to “sit” on the leaves or have the appearance of hanging over the pot. They usually grow on very steep limestone outcroppings which can explain the pendulous nature of the flower spikes.

I’ve always grown these in smaller pots with a distinct drier rest in January-early February always paying special attention to water early in the day. Slippers of the Brachypetulum alliance tend to have a thick cuticle on the upper surface of the leaf which can store water for the dry season. So as we get darker and cooler, reduce watering to the point of just misting the foliage with a light watering every couple of weeks.

One thing of note is their tendency to develop bacterial rots. Keeping good air circulation is a must for the long term health of any orchid, and these are no exception. If soft rot develops, isolate the plant to prevent the spread to other plants and try to remove the affected area and dust with a bactericide/fungicide or cinnamon at the least.

Cymbidium finlaysonianum  Spring 2011

One of my favorite Cymbidium species, finlaysonianum originates in Southeast Asia and blooms with pendulous 5ft+ spikes in the late spring. It has a very odd way of developing each iridescent flower randomly along the spike as it elongates. The flowers are fragrant and long lasting.

The Formosan Dendrobiums are also known as the Nigrohirsute (black haired) section of the Dendrobinae. Whith around 30 species, most have stiff canes that have developed fine black hairs along the leaf sheaths. The flowers can be large and long lasting and are mostly white or greenish with a contrasting lip in shades of orange, red or yellow. 

Try growing them with bright, filtered light year around. Provide a small pot with a quick draining potting medium and keep moist when actively growing with a slight dry-down between waterings in the winter. The number one rule for long term success in this section is to ALWAYS repot ONLY when you see new, active root tips.

Dendrobium crepideferum

Myrmecophilia (Schomburkia) tibicinis….Spring 2011

An amazing plant in bloom or out, the growth structure of tibicinis is reminiscent of some type of alien succulent. Belonging to the genus Myrmecophilia (ant lover) the psuedobulbs have a small opening in which ants use to colonize the plant. This is a mutually beneficial relationship since the ants get a home and the host gets protection from other pests (hungry bugs, animals, etc) and “fertilizer” from the… ummm..”guests”. The 4-6ft spikes develop in the early spring with the flowers developing slowly over a month long period. A highly recommended orchid if you have the room and light to grow it well.